Tales from the Slugger

Day 61

Just before Paynesville, KY to Louisville, KY

Distance: 68 miles

Bonus State: Indiana

Slugs of Bourbon: Too many

Being a fan of drinking, smoking and gambling, Louisville’s always been a town I’d hoped to visit. 

Since the days of my William Hill account in the 1990s and betting on Cigar (despite being odds on) to win the Kentucky Derby, the idea of sipping a Mint Julep on such hallowed “turf” would be a dream come true…

Enter Louisville, KY stage left.

I set off from David & Julia’s house in good spirits and well rested, although I have to say that the little leggies have been severely tested by the schedule I set myself this week.

After a tearful goodbye and a few photos, I pedaled off from their farm and back to the highway where I’d been plucked from the side of the road just hours before. And I felt extremely grateful again for their kindness.

I made pretty good time to Corydon, IN, despite an even stronger headwind than yesterday. But seeing the state of the roads I rode to get there, I was extremely grateful I was tackling them in bright sunlight and not the pitch black. They were narrow, windy country roads, blissfully away from the traffic (as has been a theme of this detour) heavily potholed in places and unlit throughout! And I wouldn’t have arrived until 10pm, the estimate was correct.

Stopping in Corydon to try to say thank you in person to the lovely lady at the B&B I was supposed to have been staying in, who wouldn’t hear of me paying despite cancelling at the last minute i.e. 8pm at night, I found she was out. But I had a wander around the town anyway, which was Indiana’s first state capitol and has a lovely historic downtown.

I bought a “Malt” milkshake from a Pharmacy with a “milk/soda bar” which tasted like whipped up creamy Maltesers (yum) and then stopped for a proper lunch in a small café in town.

With a full tum, and tired legs, I made slow progress on a hilly but beautiful road out of town, enjoying a lovely descent to the Indiana side of the Ohio River late afternoon.

Navigating my way along this last piece of the map and to the newly opened pedestrian/cycle bridge over the river (not on the map) was painfully time-consuming, and Steed and I even attempted an unauthorized schlep over an old railway track over a creek by the river hoping to avoid going back up to the highway during rush hour… no such luck, we found ourselves surrounded by broken down train carriages and no exit and had to pick our way back across…  should have known better.

Crossing the bridge over to Louisville was fantastic. They’ve done a lovely job of this bridge. There were meandering tourists and families out for a walk, together with a few cyclists. With a few buskers on the side and classical music pumping out in the middle of the bridge, it was a lovely experience.

The bridge to fun...

Following the cycle path by the river, it didn’t take me long on the other side to get to my hotel in downtown Louisville, where I breathed a sigh of relief.

It was already quite late, so I did a quick turnaround and ventured to the bar in the hotel for a quick drink and work out where to eat. I had a couple of ideas, but one of the ladies behind reception, Liz, suggested a place called Proof.

Well, what a fantastic choice. Uber-chic, it’s a bar restaurant with a boutique hotel attached and a modern art collection. I sat at the bar to eat and found myself beside a lovely lady called Hedy who was also there on her own and is…  a touring cyclist extraordinaire! What are the chances?

We chatted away excitedly, not quite believing the coincidence, and I heard about her trips in Europe (including the UK), and her 3-year epic through Australia, NZ and Asia. We had a lovely time until she had to go – sadly, she is in Louisville because her mother is unwell in hospital and so she is visiting each day. But we will definitely be staying in touch! And thanks for the wine Hedy.

Touring cyclist night out...

And just as Hedy vacated, two ladies called Amanda and Angie arrived, and we got chatting straight away. Another strong bourbon cocktail later, and we were visiting the arty restrooms where you can see out from the inside, but the outside is opaque. Amanda and I made a quick visit to see what it looked like from the urinals as well… well, we were curious and there was nobody in there!

Urinalelfie

Then we headed over to an outdoor event in a square around the corner where we drank some pumpkin beer and chatted to one of the local artists, and a guy called Brad who had moved to Louisville from Chicago, and the mayor (!) who wasn’t remotely interested in my bike trip (Angie, being a sweetie, insisted I meet him and tell him about it) - after I had said about two words, he was already scanning to see who else was there to speak to… genuine guy (not). Ha!

Angie, our “designated driver”, then drove us to a bar in a converted garage owned by the same people who own Proof, and Amanda traveled there in a huge Bentley with a guy who knows the owners. I guess it was one of those bizarre nights.

No you can't drive it, Amanda...

More bourbon, and a taxi back to the hotel later, I woke up early this morning fully-clothed and with my contact lenses in, having failed to write a blog. Oops. Sorry to those who were worried.

Reining in the drinking for a while I think, but a hugely fun night and some great new friends!

Me x