Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Beatles Back to F**k Sh*t Up...

Day 17
Lolo Hot Springs, MT to Hamilton, MT
Distance: 61 miles
Miles on Bike Path: 38
Hangovers: One
Total miles on trip so far: 1009 

...two beatles to be specific. 

The first is an ancient pest that has been wreaking havoc in this area of Montana, the other is Paul McCartney.

Yes, it’s true. As I cycled down from Lolo Hot Springs this morning, hanging like a bat after too many beers and shots with my new friends from the bar last night, I noticed that whole stretches of the hillsides are missing the dense, emerald green pine trees that are characteristic of the region, but instead are sparsely dotted with patches of dead and dying tress, stripped of their foliage, their brittle grey wood drying and breaking in the sunshine. And it’s a species of bark beetle, the mountain pine beetle which is to blame, laying its eggs under the bark of the trees and then eating the tree from the inside. It’s sad to see, and yet curiously beautiful in a poignant way, and the scientists and ecologists are doing their best to come to grips with it.

And as for Sir Paul, he is the reason I have been forced to go straight from Lolo Hot Springs to Hamilton, by-passing the buzzy, sassy, chic city of Missoula that I had been looking forward to visiting again, having been captivated by since I visited it four years ago. Yes, it wasn’t a festival or a convention that meant that all the hotels, motels and B&Bs have been booked up for months, it’s because Sir Paul played the football stadium in Missoula last night, holding the biggest concert ever in Montana. Thanks Paul!! Although, reports actually suggest that he was excellent.

Still, I had a flat and relatively straightforward ride today to Hamilton, including a lengthy stretch on a paved bike path separate from the road, for which my hungover self was extremely grateful. And I am back in the land of the reliable wifi, the 24-hr pharmacy, and the chain motel (this particular one is truly excellent and cheap).

The big dark mountains that I will start to cross on Friday loom behind the green fields and the horses, framing the landscape, and yet again it is spellbindingly beautiful. But still hot!



And you notice I mention Friday… YES!! I have a rest day tomorrow, and this time I intend actually to rest.

Thanks again for all the FB and blog messages of encouragement – they really make a difference, especially on days when I don’t get to speak to many people!!!


Me x

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